Sit through a day of a grand sumo tournament

January, May and September only

The only one on Earth
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Ryogoku Kokugikan

Ryogoku Kokugikan is the national sumo stadium, a few minutes from Ryogoku station in eastern Tokyo. The Tokyo tournaments run fifteen days each in January, May and September.

Why it's unique

Professional sumo exists in one country and holds six ranked tournaments a year. Three of the six are in this building, which makes it the single most likely place on Earth to see the sport at its highest level.

The rhythm is the part nobody expects. The ritual before each bout, the salt, the stamping, the false starts, runs four minutes. The bout itself is often over in under ten seconds. You are watching a ceremony with a fight at the end of it.

Before you go

Check the calendar before you plan around it. Tokyo gets January, May and September; the November tournament is in Fukuoka and the others are Osaka and Nagoya. Turning up in Tokyo in November will not get you sumo.

Doors open in the morning but the ranked wrestlers do not fight until mid-afternoon. Arrive around 14:00 unless you specifically want to watch the lower divisions in a near-empty hall, which is quiet and free of crowds and rather good.

Tickets go on sale about a month ahead through the Japan Sumo Association and sell out fast. Chair seats near the back are fine; the ringside boxes are expensive and you sit on the floor.

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