Sit zazen at one of the two head temples of Soto Zen
A working head temple, free to walk in
Sojiji in Tsurumi Ward is one of the two daihonzan, or head temples, of the Soto school of Zen; the other is Eiheiji in Fukui. It was founded in 1321 in Noto and moved here in 1911 after fire, so this is a centuries-old institution on a site barely over a century old.
Why it's unique
There are exactly two head temples of Soto Zen, and this is one of them, confirmed by the school's own national body. Around 200 monks and novices are in residence and it is a working training monastery.
The scale is the surprise, and it is free to walk into: the Sanmon is the largest reinforced-concrete temple gate in Japan, the Daisodo is 36 m high with a thousand-tatami interior, and the hundred-ken corridor is polished daily by trainee monks.
Before you go
The temple runs free guided precinct tours with zazen instruction by training monks, with no reservation. Meet at the Koshakudai reception in front of the Daikoku statue; it takes about 70 to 80 minutes.
Mornings can be full of school groups. The temple's own website blocks automated access, so confirm the current tour and zazen schedule by phone before going.