Photos: Thirteen-fri · CC BY-SA 4.0 (1, 2, 3, 4) · iloverjoa · CC BY 3.0
Funaoka Onsen, built in 1923 as the bathhouse of the Funaoka-rō inn, was in 2003 the first working sento in Kyoto (third in Japan) entered on the national register of tangible cultural properties.
Why it's unique
"First in Kyoto" is the checkable part: in 2003 it became the first working public bath in the city entered on the national register of tangible cultural properties, and the third in Japan. The widely repeated "Japan's first electric bath (1933)" is secondary-sourced only, so it is not asserted.
It is still an ordinary neighbourhood bath you can use, and the decoration is the reason to go: carved ranma panels of Kyoto festivals, a 1930s "Shanghai Incident" panel, and Taishō to Shōwa majolica tiles.
Before you go
Look up in the changing room: carved ranma panels show the Aoi Matsuri and Kamo kurabe-uma on one side and the Imamiya festival on the other, there is a 1930s militarist "Shanghai Incident" panel, and a Kurama Tengu with Ushiwakamaru on the coffered ceiling. The walls are lined with Taishō to Shōwa majolica tiles. The outdoor bath is Kibune stone.
Men's and women's sides swap daily, so come twice; Sundays open at 8:00. Two minutes away, Sarasa Nishijin is a café in a converted 1930s bathhouse with the same tiles: do both.
Open 15:00 to 23:30, Sundays from 8:00. Kyoto's sento fare is about ¥490 to ¥550 now (older sources say ¥450); confirm. The closing day is in conflict: the city says none, the sento union says Tuesday. Tel 075-441-3735.
